Jump to content

Fixed my chipped composite blade...


SDS

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just a little FYI for those in similar situations with your sticks...

 

went to Home Depot and bought some LockTite "Marine" 2-part epoxy to fix the chipped toe of my composite blade. The grey on black looks like ass, but I think it did the trick. It is solid as a rock and I don't have to worry about further chipping or water getting in the layers... I'm going to try it on some wood sticks that are fraying in the same spot...

 

sorry for the lame post, but I'm sure others have damaged sticks they would like to save.

Posted

SDS, was that composite the first stick you purchased? I am wondering what the real difference is to move up from wood. Did you develop a preference after trying different types of sticks?

 

Also, a question to the players on the board, how often should you retape the blade of your stick (and how often do pro players with unlimited amounts of friction tape retape their blades). Would logically seem to be benefitial to replace it often, however i have no idea if fresh tape is anything more than a small difference from tape a few months old. Lastly, my friction tape has started to tear on the bottom of my blade towards the heel. I was not expecting this as i figured the tape sliding against the ice would hold up for a long while because there was nothing tearing at it. Is this normal?

Posted

Grim,

 

Step up to an 85-flex Easton. You won't regret it. You'll be able to shoot very hard. Don't get too stiff of a stick, or you won't be able to get it to whip the puck towards the target. 85 is whippy, but not too whippy. You'll notice the difference immediately.

 

As for the tape, just replace it once the bottom of the blade is showing through.

 

Good tip on the epoxy SDS. I have an Easton that has a chip at the heel. I'm gonna give it a shot.

Posted

SDS, was that composite the first stick you purchased? I am wondering what the real difference is to move up from wood. Did you develop a preference after trying different types of sticks?

 

Also, a question to the players on the board, how often should you retape the blade of your stick (and how often do pro players with unlimited amounts of friction tape retape their blades). Would logically seem to be benefitial to replace it often, however i have no idea if fresh tape is anything more than a small difference from tape a few months old. Lastly, my friction tape has started to tear on the bottom of my blade towards the heel. I was not expecting this as i figured the tape sliding against the ice would hold up for a long while because there was nothing tearing at it. Is this normal?

 

1. Had 2 wood Montreal sticks that both started to fray at the toe and got soft. I bought a low end Easton Synergy 300 as a replacement. It was a different feel at 1st, but I think I handle the puck well now. Unfortunately, I can't give much of a comparison because I play much differently now than just a few short months ago.

 

2. retape your blade when it become torn, bunches up, or starts to pull away from the blade. You need to WAX your tape to keep it from soaking up water and rotting your stick.

 

3. If your tape is tearing at the heel, you need a different stick with a different lie. You are hitting the heel on the ice and not the middle of the blade.

 

" The most important factor in the selection is the lie. This term describes the angle of the blade to the shaft. If this angle is wrong, the blade will not sit flat on the ice and will cause undue difficulty in stick handling and shooting. If possible, look for a stick with skates on. Many shops will also have a box to stand on that simulates the height of skates. Make sure that your stick is flat when you are at skate level and in a playing stance. If you have a stick or blade that you are confident is the proper lie, it is always a good idea to bring it for comparison when you are looking for a new one. "

 

"Determining your stick lie

 

* The lie is the angle between the blade and the shaft

* A lie number is printed on the front of the stick's shaft and ranges from 4 to 8

* The higher the number, the narrower the angle between the blade and the shaft. The smaller the number, the wider the angle. For example, a lie 4 stick has a wide handle-to-blade angle, while a lie 8 has a smaller angle.

* As a rule, lower lie angle sticks are used for players who skate low to the ice and carry the puck out in front of them

* Lies 7 and 8 are for players who skate upright and carry the puck close to their skates

* One way to determine if you have the proper lie is to examine your old stick

o If the blade is worn on the toe, you should try a higher lie

o If your stick is worn on the heel, you should try a lower lie

o If the blade wears evenly, you are using the correct lie"

Posted

Grim,

 

Step up to an 85-flex Easton. You won't regret it. You'll be able to shoot very hard. Don't get too stiff of a stick, or you won't be able to get it to whip the puck towards the target. 85 is whippy, but not too whippy. You'll notice the difference immediately.

 

 

Damn. So that will set me back about $130 huh? Or is there some cheaper models with 85 flex not shown on Great Skate?

Posted

Damn. So that will set me back about $130 huh? Or is there some cheaper models with 85 flex not shown on Great Skate?

 

you are in a tough spot because your shot right now won't be taking advantage of newer sticks. You can certainly make the investment, but you have to be leary of getting the wrong lie. You may find as you become a better skater that you bend your knees more and may need a different stick than what you would get today.

 

Personally, I would stick w/ Sherwoods until you feel comfortable enough playing actual games, etc... to pick one out based upon what YOU want to see in a stick. You would be going into this blind at this stage and you may have to chase good money after bad if you choose incorrectly.

Posted

Grim, you might want to think about a 2 piece stick. Money-wise, you make back that price once you break 3 or 4 blades. Personally, I don't see any point to going with a one piece composite. I just don't make enough money to go out and get something that could break so easily (I like to go hard into the corners, so I'm bound to go in at the wrong angle and snap off a blade or two).

 

SDS, why not tape over the end of the stick. I put single strips of tape lengthwise over the tip of the blade before taping it up. It can still chip, but it's not as likely. I do end up taping it up a lot more often because of this though.

Posted

you are in a tough spot because your shot right now won't be taking advantage of newer sticks. You can certainly make the investment, but you have to be leary of getting the wrong lie. You may find as you become a better skater that you bend your knees more and may need a different stick than what you would get today.

 

Personally, I would stick w/ Sherwoods until you feel comfortable enough playing actual games, etc... to pick one out based upon what YOU want to see in a stick. You would be going into this blind at this stage and you may have to chase good money after bad if you choose incorrectly.

 

Oh for sure. At the moment i do not have a real shot and feel barely comfortable doing anything but a wrist shot, i was just merely browsing costs while in class tonight. I can see the need to find a way to fix any crack in those composite sticks, they are just so expensive. When my frustration rises currently i hesitate to slam my stick on the ice as the last thing i want to do is needlessly shell out an additional $35 on account of my own stupidity.

Posted

Lastly, my friction tape has started to tear on the bottom of my blade towards the heel. I was not expecting this as i figured the tape sliding against the ice would hold up for a long while because there was nothing tearing at it. Is this normal?

Yes. Mine is doing it all the time. I just keep re-taping it

 

Grim,

 

Step up to an 85-flex Easton. You won't regret it. You'll be able to shoot very hard. Don't get too stiff of a stick, or you won't be able to get it to whip the puck towards the target. 85 is whippy, but not too whippy. You'll notice the difference immediately.

 

As for the tape, just replace it once the bottom of the blade is showing through.

 

Good tip on the epoxy SDS. I have an Easton that has a chip at the heel. I'm gonna give it a shot.

Best thing for the wrist shot is to not fall down and almost break your wrist like I did last week. My wrist has been so sore that my shot is just terrible now. God, injuries are so frustrating! :wallbash:

Posted

Best thing for the wrist shot is to not fall down and almost break your wrist like I did last week. My wrist has been so sore that my shot is just terrible now. God, injuries are so frustrating! :wallbash:

 

I screwed up my knee two weeks ago, lost an edge while taking a hard turn along the boards. The trainers at my gym say its something with the patella tendon and that I should go see a doctor, but I'm not going to. Hockey's too important to miss any time for stupid injury. Just fight through it.

Posted

I screwed up my knee two weeks ago, lost an edge while taking a hard turn along the boards. The trainers at my gym say its something with the patella tendon and that I should go see a doctor, but I'm not going to. Hockey's too important to miss any time for stupid injury. Just fight through it.

As long as you can play. And I know how you feel about seeing a doctor. Good luck with it

Posted

I think one of my all time favorites was an old Canadien woodstick. A 6001 I thikn I remeber correctly. I was sad when it broke cause they stopped making them and I couldn't get another. I have 2 easton ultra lite 2 piecers. Easier on the budget. I think I would have spent like 600 bucks replacing the lades I've broken the last few years if they were like synergys.

Posted

I screwed up my knee two weeks ago, lost an edge while taking a hard turn along the boards. The trainers at my gym say its something with the patella tendon and that I should go see a doctor, but I'm not going to. Hockey's too important to miss any time for stupid injury. Just fight through it.

 

 

i hear ya on that. i screwed up my patella back in june, but keep playing once a week. it's sore as hell but i'll deal with it to keep playing. the worst is when i go down to a knee or drop to block a shot. i can barely put weight on it for a minute or so after that. maybe i'll go see a doctor one day, when i don't want to play anymore or actually get health insurance.

Posted

i hear ya on that. i screwed up my patella back in june, but keep playing once a week. it's sore as hell but i'll deal with it to keep playing. the worst is when i go down to a knee or drop to block a shot. i can barely put weight on it for a minute or so after that. maybe i'll go see a doctor one day, when i don't want to play anymore or actually get health insurance.

 

I've skated on it once since the fall. I didn't really notice any problems. The only issue I have is a strange stretching feeling in the knee when I bend my knee beyond 90 degrees. If that's the only problem, I'm not wasting a doctor's time with it.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...