MattPie

The stat is per 60 minutes, I think, so it's just an odd stat. It'd probably more more sense to do per two minutes or something, but even then it's still a strange stat.

If there are 4 PKs per game (let's go with that) and Risto plays half of each on average, that's like 3-4 minutes per game. So to date, like 100 minutes.

Is the picture from Australia? :)

I was thinking that; PK shots per 60 might sum up the entire season up to now.

Seriously? Edmonton has 83 goals to date, Buffalo has 55. That assist stat is incredible.

Both of those guys need to show they can play for more than like 10 games before we start talking about them cementing spots in the top-4 D and middle-6 F.

Sadly, Lakewood's Beer finder doesn't report anything within 100 miles of me. I'll still keep an eye out in the nicer distributors and Wegmans.

And their perennial rivals, The Tonawanda Town of Tonawandas.

Rand (can I call you Rand?), I say go. Delete anything that isn't "primo content" (like this post). I'd leave it open for people to post but moderate it with a heavy hand.

That's a rather inefficient way to launch them into the Sun. It'll save fuel if you use the earth and moon (and possibly Venus) to slingshot. That being said, I don't want Jack Edwards to be the first human (well, primate, at least) to leave the Earth-moon system.

I'll keep an eye out. I had a mint stout a few years ago that was pretty good, so I can believe that's some good stuff. Found it! http://www.springhousebeer.com/pages/beer

Bought it as my local Wegs last week. I think there was a decent porter hiding in there before someone dumped the caramel coffee syrup in it. I don't mind gimmick beers like those, but it's way overboard on the flavor. I drank the rest of them but wouldn't buy it again. Anyone seen a case of these around Rochester?

I'm surprised as anyone that I feel like their schitck is wearing thin. The last few series of TG started to wear on me as it was beautifully-shot but repetitive. I don't feel like the new one is shot as well and I find myself missing the celebrity interviews and serious car tests on the track to break up the buffoonery. This could also be in part that the Clarkson "incident" has pushed him from "loud-mouth buffoon" to "actual giant " in my mind so I'm less favourable to the stupid crap he says.

I'll put two on the Sabres, at @$2075, +105.

I went to a few games in the mid-2000s. It really was the combo of Ovi and the Caps getting good. The games before 2005 were empty if not for the Sabres fans. The place was rocking with people dressed in red by 2007-2008, if I remember right. Agreed on both. There's so much room that you can't give the puck up easily. That includes SOG.

Pads and rotors are easy. Calipers are a little harder because you have to bleed out the fluid which can take a little time. Anyways, process to for disc brakes: - Jack up car and put a jack-stand under the frame somewhere. Don't work only with the jack. I have a crappy jack so I usually only do one wheel at a time, but if you have better tools get one end up so you can work on both wheels. This should be easy. - Take the wheels off. This should be easy. - Remove the caliper without disconnecting the hose (unless you want to make a mess and try bleeding). On my more recent jobs, there are two medium sized (12 mm, I think) bolts on inside of the caliper; once you take those out it slides right off the pads. Find a place to set or hang the caliper so it's not dangling by the hose. This shouldn't be too bad. - Remove the the pads. This can be a little sticky but not hard. - Remove the bracket that holds the caliper and pads. This should be two more bolts on the back side (I think 14mm). Cage should almost fall off. - Remove the rotor. This can suck, it's often rusted and sometimes won't come off the hub. There are a lot of ways to work on this (heat, hammer, prying) on the net. The one that I've used the last couple times (because I could) is there are a couple threaded holes in the center of the rotor (what they're for, I don't know). FInd the right bolt and start tightening. When it gets through it'll push against the hub and pop the rotor off. I almost wonder if that's what they're for. - New rotor on. This shouldn't be hard. - Caliper bracket back on. This shouldn't be hard either. - Replace the clips (if you have them), grease the clips using brake grease. Not hard, you might need to use pliers or pry them off. - New pads in place. This can be a little tough sometimes if the pads and clips are tight. - You have to push the brake pistons in because the new pads are thicker than the worn ones. I use a big C-clamp and a piece of wood, the old pad, or a hockey puck to make sure I don't damage the the pistons. Keep an eye on the brake fluid level under the hood, make sure it doesn't overflow. Don't push the pistons more than you need to get them over the brake pads. - Calipers in place and bolted. Not hard. - Wheel back on. You're done. Work methodically, try to lay things you take off in order as you're working so if you're not sure how a new pads fit if they're slightly different you can reference what the original inside or outside pad looks like. Make sure to check the lug nuts after you drive a miles and retighten. - Dude, that's an awesome bike. Also very "in" right now in the post-cafe-racer era. Some of the factories are making production versions again (Ducati, Triumph, BMW (kinda)).

I may need to remove the OT tag... that's awesome. Also, should I rename this to the DIY mega-thread?

My parents had an 88 Aerostar that had a auto-adjust e-brake (a ratchet in the floor-mounted handle). We used it twice; once when the car was new and once I applied it shortly before going on a trip while packing the car (oops, I was roughly 13). Both times the e-brake would work fine when applying and then click-click-click as the ratchet took adjusted when the springs weren't strong enough to release the brakes. We had to crawl under and pull on the cables to get the brakes turned off. Actually, that's a lie; we used it once a year for the inspection and then had to release it again that day before going home.

I've definitely gotten confused when I got the back-end up and the wheel wouldn't spin. :)

You might want to look around at some flea markets. They're usually somewhat cheap if you don't mind putting some work into seasoning them. I have a nice Griswold 9" (made in Erie, PA) that looks like they machined it smooth when they manufactured it. I think I paid $20 for it. The newer pans I have have that sand-case rough look which isn't as non-stick as the machined stuff. I haven't used them in awhile, looks like they need to be seasoned again. :( I also have a cheap, light, cast iron wok. That thing is "rustic" but you can put any amount of heat on it and it's fine. http://wokshop.stores.yahoo.net/trcairwok.html

My Dad referred to it as a star-wheel, but I doubt that's the real name. That being said, I was just looking up reverse-braking adjustment to see if I remembered that right and some of the people in the post were talking about star-wheels, so maybe that is the name. Oh, and for the youngins, drum brakes used to auto-adjust themselves as the shoes wore down if you hit the brakes in reverse. You'd hear a fairly loud click. No brake job was complete until you drove up and down the driveway a few times to get them set.

Traditionally referred to as "being sellers at the deadline". Which happens every year. I wonder if we'd get the traditional "and d4rk's parents and long-time girlfriend Josie are on-hand for his first NHL game" camera shot.

If Kulikov comes back this week, does Guhle have to be the first to go back? Or is he ear-marked for Gorges and doesn't have to go back to Junior until Gorges returns?

My dad and I used to do drums, and the rule there is always leave one together for reference while you're working on the other one. :) Brakes are easy these days as the calipers are usually mounted in a frame that also holds the pads. You had to remove the calipers and pads at the same time on my cars from the 90s and that sucked; the ridge of unworn and/or corroded brake rotor around the outside always hung things up. Drums were terrible about that when the shoes would stick; you couldn't get in there to pull them in far enough to get the drum off. Go for it, as far as I'm concerned. My guideline is anything you fix/make/do. If you build pumpkin trebuchets, I want to see it. Painting your Sabres room? Post pictures. Computer hardware? Sure, why not. Build beer brewing hardware out of old water heaters? Oh yeah!