MattPie

Right. As far as I know, the half-bath outlet is the last thing on the circuit, which runs through all 2.5 baths in the house plus a couple other random outlets along the way. I keep thinking it's a short like you say, but if it was truly shorted it would trip before anything was plugged in, right? I have to do it methodically again (switch out the duplex outlet, check, eliminate the GFI out and see if the other outlet or breaker goes, etc.

True, although I understand it's dictation with some editing, so take that for what it's worth.

I have an outlet in my half bath that I'm not sure has ever worked. I have it disconnected from the circuit upstream because any time I plug something in it trips the upstream GFI outlet. I can't figure out why though; if it were a nail or screw it'd trip before anything was plugged in. I replaced the GFI outlet thinking that was the issue, but nope. One of these days I need to dig into it again.

I don't know if I posted this here, but: I was putting in wall anchors to tie tall furniture to the wall a few months ago (to prevent it from falling on RosePie). I drilled into the drywall in my living room and put the anchor in. Later that week I noticed a small water leak in the basement and after thinking one of the joints went, realized what I probably did. After pulling away the we drywall, I saw I hit the 4" PVC drain pipe from the upstairs bath dead center with the drill. Doh. Fixed it with some JB Weld Pipe stuff and it seems fine. Learned a new technique though: one side of the hole was close enough to the stud that I just cut it over there so I'd have something to screw into. The other side was a good foot from the next stud so I cut a furring strip larger than the hole, and screwed it into place so I'd have something to screw the new piece of drywall to (roughly a foot square so I couldn't use a patch). Worked out well, other than I haven't gotten back to Spackle and paint it yet. :blush:

GT's are hard to draft because every young goaltender has holes. The good ones can learn and adjust to what the "book" on them is once they get to the NHL and shooters can place shots better. The flame-outs are the GT's that can't adjust or open other holes when they fix something, even if their raw athleticism got them by in juniors/etc. The comparison is made to QB in football a lot; the reason QBs are hard to predict is they have to be able to adjust to the NFL D and a whole different level of player. The average college team has a couple of guys on D that might see the NFL; Every NFL team as essentially all-stars from the college level. Some QBs can process that, many can't.

Watching, that doesn't seem like a straight-up punch-out like the Johnson one. He certainly lost fights by judges decision over the years.

The stat is per 60 minutes, I think, so it's just an odd stat. It'd probably more more sense to do per two minutes or something, but even then it's still a strange stat.

If there are 4 PKs per game (let's go with that) and Risto plays half of each on average, that's like 3-4 minutes per game. So to date, like 100 minutes.

Is the picture from Australia? :)

I was thinking that; PK shots per 60 might sum up the entire season up to now.

Seriously? Edmonton has 83 goals to date, Buffalo has 55. That assist stat is incredible.

Both of those guys need to show they can play for more than like 10 games before we start talking about them cementing spots in the top-4 D and middle-6 F.

Sadly, Lakewood's Beer finder doesn't report anything within 100 miles of me. I'll still keep an eye out in the nicer distributors and Wegmans.

And their perennial rivals, The Tonawanda Town of Tonawandas.

Rand (can I call you Rand?), I say go. Delete anything that isn't "primo content" (like this post). I'd leave it open for people to post but moderate it with a heavy hand.

That's a rather inefficient way to launch them into the Sun. It'll save fuel if you use the earth and moon (and possibly Venus) to slingshot. That being said, I don't want Jack Edwards to be the first human (well, primate, at least) to leave the Earth-moon system.

I'll keep an eye out. I had a mint stout a few years ago that was pretty good, so I can believe that's some good stuff. Found it! http://www.springhousebeer.com/pages/beer

Bought it as my local Wegs last week. I think there was a decent porter hiding in there before someone dumped the caramel coffee syrup in it. I don't mind gimmick beers like those, but it's way overboard on the flavor. I drank the rest of them but wouldn't buy it again. Anyone seen a case of these around Rochester?

I'm surprised as anyone that I feel like their schitck is wearing thin. The last few series of TG started to wear on me as it was beautifully-shot but repetitive. I don't feel like the new one is shot as well and I find myself missing the celebrity interviews and serious car tests on the track to break up the buffoonery. This could also be in part that the Clarkson "incident" has pushed him from "loud-mouth buffoon" to "actual giant " in my mind so I'm less favourable to the stupid crap he says.

I'll put two on the Sabres, at @$2075, +105.

I went to a few games in the mid-2000s. It really was the combo of Ovi and the Caps getting good. The games before 2005 were empty if not for the Sabres fans. The place was rocking with people dressed in red by 2007-2008, if I remember right. Agreed on both. There's so much room that you can't give the puck up easily. That includes SOG.

Pads and rotors are easy. Calipers are a little harder because you have to bleed out the fluid which can take a little time. Anyways, process to for disc brakes: - Jack up car and put a jack-stand under the frame somewhere. Don't work only with the jack. I have a crappy jack so I usually only do one wheel at a time, but if you have better tools get one end up so you can work on both wheels. This should be easy. - Take the wheels off. This should be easy. - Remove the caliper without disconnecting the hose (unless you want to make a mess and try bleeding). On my more recent jobs, there are two medium sized (12 mm, I think) bolts on inside of the caliper; once you take those out it slides right off the pads. Find a place to set or hang the caliper so it's not dangling by the hose. This shouldn't be too bad. - Remove the the pads. This can be a little sticky but not hard. - Remove the bracket that holds the caliper and pads. This should be two more bolts on the back side (I think 14mm). Cage should almost fall off. - Remove the rotor. This can suck, it's often rusted and sometimes won't come off the hub. There are a lot of ways to work on this (heat, hammer, prying) on the net. The one that I've used the last couple times (because I could) is there are a couple threaded holes in the center of the rotor (what they're for, I don't know). FInd the right bolt and start tightening. When it gets through it'll push against the hub and pop the rotor off. I almost wonder if that's what they're for. - New rotor on. This shouldn't be hard. - Caliper bracket back on. This shouldn't be hard either. - Replace the clips (if you have them), grease the clips using brake grease. Not hard, you might need to use pliers or pry them off. - New pads in place. This can be a little tough sometimes if the pads and clips are tight. - You have to push the brake pistons in because the new pads are thicker than the worn ones. I use a big C-clamp and a piece of wood, the old pad, or a hockey puck to make sure I don't damage the the pistons. Keep an eye on the brake fluid level under the hood, make sure it doesn't overflow. Don't push the pistons more than you need to get them over the brake pads. - Calipers in place and bolted. Not hard. - Wheel back on. You're done. Work methodically, try to lay things you take off in order as you're working so if you're not sure how a new pads fit if they're slightly different you can reference what the original inside or outside pad looks like. Make sure to check the lug nuts after you drive a miles and retighten. - Dude, that's an awesome bike. Also very "in" right now in the post-cafe-racer era. Some of the factories are making production versions again (Ducati, Triumph, BMW (kinda)).

I may need to remove the OT tag... that's awesome. Also, should I rename this to the DIY mega-thread?

My parents had an 88 Aerostar that had a auto-adjust e-brake (a ratchet in the floor-mounted handle). We used it twice; once when the car was new and once I applied it shortly before going on a trip while packing the car (oops, I was roughly 13). Both times the e-brake would work fine when applying and then click-click-click as the ratchet took adjusted when the springs weren't strong enough to release the brakes. We had to crawl under and pull on the cables to get the brakes turned off. Actually, that's a lie; we used it once a year for the inspection and then had to release it again that day before going home.